We got to Arches around 1:30 PM and it was closed due to overcrowding. I don’t think this had anything to do with covid, at least not directly. I think there are just so many people here. Last night in Capitol Reef it got down into the 20’s, 40’s during the day yesterday, yet all the campsite were occupied, people were outside, kids playing and riding bikes.
Not only was Arches closed, every campground is full, as is every RV park. We did find one with a single “less than optimal site” according to the owner. We looked at it and decided this was our hotel night. Moab is a touristy western town close to both parks. It was a stop on the old Sante Fe trail when this was part of Mexico. We found a hotel (The Virginian) that takes pets there, and a decent restaurant (Gloria’s Cafe). The hotel is next to a river walk. After eating we took a walk on it only to find a dog park. Sammy is nuts about dog parks. He teases the other dogs into chasing him, and he runs constantly. If he realizes he’s no longer being chased, he makes full speed running passes at other dogs. If that doesn’t work he gets in their face and dares them to catch him.
We hope to get into Arches tomorrow AM, and maybe even see Canyonlands, its so close. We may boondock tomorrow. Then, if we feel like we’ve seen enough of Canyonlands, on to Mesa Verde.
Always be skeptical of a Campground Full sign. We left Ruby’s Best Western RV park Sunday without a definite spot to stay the night. We had a spot reserved in Capitol Reef NP for Monday through recreation.gov but they were supposedly full Sunday. We went to the campground host and asked, found out they had 3 open sites? One of them was the same spot we had for Monday (tonight). Same story tomorrow, leaving for Canyonlands NP without a place to camp, let’s hope they will have a few open spots.
Capitol Reef is roughly 5X the size of Bryce Canyon. Rugged cliffs, sparse vegetation and cold, it got down into the 20’s last night. The park only opened March 1 but there are lots of people here. We went to the waterfold today, a 100 mile shear cliff that is the reef in the park’s name. The early pioneers likened it to a barrier reef as it prevented them from traveling, like a reef blocks a ship. There are several narrow gorges where the rare rain storm washes through the cliff. Pioneers and the Indians before them used these washes to travel through. The park gets 10 inches of precipitation a year, but the occasional summer thunderstorm is dangerous. There is no soil here, just rock and sand so the water doesn’t soak in at all, just runs off, when it hits the waterfold, the cliff, it flows until it reaches one of these gaps. The water level can get several feet high in minutes.
In case you’re wondering. The Capitol part of the park’s name comes from the resemblance of the park’s major mountain peak to the US capitol dome.
We also hiked the Freemont river trail and the Hickman arch trail.
Eating right now at a triple D, and roadfood.com place, Curry Pizza Palace in Bicknell Utah, using their internet. The pizzas are naan bread with indian toppings. We had half chicken masala and half butter chicken. I couldn’t tell the two halves apart, Peggy, who is a super taster could. Both were good. Wish us luck, 3 inches of snow tonight, and tomorrow we move on to Canyonlands, then Arches, then Mesa Verde, if all goes as planned.
One of many orchards around the Fruita CG at Capitol Reef NP. Apple, cherry, plum and apricot orchards are here. Fruit is available to park visitors on a you pick it basis in the summer. We hiked into one of the gaps in the waterfold. It was a foot path due to large boulders until pioneers spent 4 years clearing them in the 1990’s so that wagons could pass.
On a very cold windy day we drove through Bryce Canyon stopping at all the turnouts and taking short walks. Busy but not congested like Zion NP was, this park the drive is on the rim of the canyon while Zion is on the canyon floor. The views at Bryce are spectacular and the geology very interesting. Off white limestone, or dolomite, is on top, followed by several layers of red rock, then shale then sandstone. Most of the images won’t upload, connection is poor, may try again later.
The Three Monkeys Hoodoo. The one on the left has his hands over his eyes, etc.
We plan to go to Capitol Reef NP tomorrow, Arches Tuesday and Canyonland Wednesday and/or Thursday. Mesa Verde in Colorado is probably next. All of the drives if done in that order are less than 3 hours.
Traveling and walking our dog has led me to encounter dog ‘breeds’ that I wasn’t aware of. This morning there was a springer doodle. Of course we all know of Cockapoo’s, golden doodles, labradoodles, golden labs. Obvious what those are. But how about a chiweenie or a ausadoodle. Ironic that most of those are recognized more readily by the public than our English Setter. It’s rare that someone knows what breed Sammy is. Just heard today that Labs are still number one in terms of numbers, but number two is now the French Bulldog. Really?
Just a note so I’ll remember next time we come, if there is a next time. This RV park is basically a flat, asphalt and gravel lot nearly full of RV’s, in St. George. The temple is not a mountain or interesting rock formation, it’s a Mormon temple. The showers were excellent, there is a pool, a game room with fusball and ping pong, an exercise room and a billiards room. The office staff were extremely nice and helpful.
Went to Zion National Park today. Man is it touristy and congested. There was only a short line to get in but once in there was NO parking. People were driving around stalking pedestrians in hopes they were leaving and freeing up a space. In fairness to the park there was a sign just before the entrance “All Parking Lots Full”. The park is beautiful and consists of a deep canyon created by the Virgin River at the canyon floor. Here’s a couple of pictures……
The pics don’t do justice to the park but you get the idea. Rugged peaks of red and white sandstone, dry desert- like land with a clear trout stream running through it. Turns out, the park is mostly a central road through the canyon following the river, and it’s closed to traffic, since the 1990’s. You park (theoretically) and then purchase a ticket for a bus that takes you through. Hikers can get off at any one of several stops. The last return bus is at 7:15. After some time and frustration we found a spot to park and walked the river trail 3.5 miles, 7 total, beautiful weather and scenery. Added 3 new birds to my life list, Golden Eagle (yes I’ve seen one before but never posted one to ebird), Scrub Jay and Spotted Towhee. Oregon Junco too, but that’s a subspecies. We won’t go back tomorrow; not into bus rides and even though we didn’t see the best views, they say Angel’s Landing is beyond description, we’ve seen enough. On to Bryce Canyon. Not sure where we will stay tomorrow. Got to get to work on that before bed. Might try a freecamping.net site.
We got back just before Croshaw’s Pies closed. We like to eat at local places and roadfood.com is one of our main go to’s for finding them. They hit the bullseye with this one. They make quiche, pot pies, and 34 different sweet pies. We had quiche, soup and a blackberry/ raspberry pie. Perfect.
one more picture
Peggy’s a big help finding birds. Sammy can’t wait to get back on the road
They say travel is enlightening. I got a better understanding of California by being there, however briefly. It has the highest effective poverty rate, the largest gap between rich and poor, the most homeless, the most drug abuse, high crime, poor schools despite one of the highest per pupil expenditures in the nation and diseases not seen in this country for a century are reappearing, mostly diseases carried by lice and fleas like typhus. But seeing it firsthand brings perspective. It’s still a beautiful prosperous state, on or near the coast. The eastern part and the central valley are incredibly poor. Peggy said as we drove through “I feel like we are back in South America”. It feels like Mexico. There are men selling tacos and burritos from carts on the side of the highway, people walking and riding bikes, trash everywhere, abandoned cars and homes. This stands in dramatic contrast to the coastal areas where the ultra rich entertainment industry types and techies live. I think it’s the people in between who are leaving. The family who started the ModVan company we bought from were transferred to Ca. roughly 20 years ago from Atlanta. I asked how they like it, “we like the climate” she replied. I’m reading 1984 on this trip. If the middle class does disappear the state will resemble the dystopia of that book, lots of proles and a smaller class of “the party” with little in between. Here is some of the beauty of California, the Santa Barbara mountains, a straight ridge of snowy mountains rising abruptly above the scrub, semi-desert landscape creating a separate, distinct eco-zone…….
Sitting in the ModVan for our first night of “camping”. Carpenteria State Beach was our choice. Only a 30 minute drive from the pick up site, we knew we would need time to unpack and store all the stuff we brought. We drove 4 days to get here. Planned 8 to 9 hrs/day driving time but the weather put an end to that plan. A “blizzard” near Flagstaff put us at a complete stop on I 40 just 8 miles from our hotel. Stopped at 7:00 PM didn’t move again until 7:00 AM. It was 22 degrees outside with snow and ice so few got out of their vehicles. We were fine, I feel sorry for the family with 3 children and a dog.
Here are a few pictures.
Finished with the inservice and paper work, ready to drive offPeggy lounging in the upper deck/bed, Sammy photobombingone more picture, Sammy in his crows nest, his favorite spot in the van
The van feels plenty big enough, while still fitting into a routine parking space. Ask us in a few weeks, we might feel differently.
Off to Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, then St George Utah. We plan to see Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks.
Carpenteria State Beach
First day at Carpenteria SB was windy and cold. Reminded me of Mark Twain’s quip : the coldest winter day I ever spent was one summer in San Francisco. Still we enjoyed it. Had a chance to use the furnace, kept the van nice and warm. Guess what we had for our supper……
yes pizza, from Pizzaman Dan. About 4 blocks from the park entrance they delivered right to our camp site. This is the inside of the box, you can see my hands holding it at the bottom. Peggy framed the picture well.
We had a good night’s sleep then walked the beach and trails. So many birds! Most were the same as at home but I added about 8 life birds to my list: California Towhee, California Gull, bushtit, Lesser Goldfinch, Black Phoebe come to mind.
Peggy Calls an audible
We had planned on a 6 1/2 hr drive to Valley of Fire State park in Nevada but I offered her the option of staying at a Harvesthosts.com site We joined for a year to give us options on places to stay. There was a place almost exactly in between Carpenteria and St. George Utah, Peggy Sue’s Diner, aka Diner-Taurus. Here are a couple of pictures…..
This is in the women’s restroom. Peggy says it fooled her on the way in and again on the way out.
The food was good, typical diner fare. The parking area was basically a truck stop in the desert. Peggy Sue’s is almost exactly half way between LA and Las Vegas so people going to the latter stop to eat there. They say lots of celebrities do but the only picture I saw of a celeb was of Joseph Manguella, whose claim to fame is as a Robert DeNiro look alike. I know what you’re thinking but the resemblance is amazing. I can see that there is a real need for a harvest host review blog. The reviews on the site are all very positive, obviously some editing going on there. More later, including some thoughts on California and this ultra mormon RV park we are staying in tonight, McArthur’s Temple View, a hint, the temple isn’t a rock formation.
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Roses 1.0 Van Life 